AOTEAROA - The Land of the Long White Cloud

 

NEW ZEALAND
Day 25 12/10/97
Wayward Bus

Day 26 12/11/97

Great Coast Road

Day 27 12/12/97

Twelve Apostles

Day 28 12/13/97

Melbourne/Auckland

Day 29 12/14/97
"Kiwi" Experience

Day 30 12/15/97
Aotearoa

Day 31 12/16/97
Raining Cats & Dogs

Day 32 12/17/97
Panning for Gold

Day 33 12/18/97
Glacial River

Day 34 12/19/97
Sun has Come Out!

Day 35 12/20/97
Bungy Jump

Day 36 12/21/97
Church of Good Shepherd

Day 37 12/22/97
Kaikoura

Day 38 12/23/97
Ferry Across Channel

Day 39 12/24/97
Christmas Eve

Day 40 12/25/97
Rotorua

Day 41 12/26/97
Boxing Day!

Day 42 12/27/97
Wiatomo Walkway

Day 43 12/28/97
Black Water Tubing to View the GlowWorms

Day 44 12/29/97
End of "Kiwi Experence"

Day 45 12/30/97
Adelaide

Day 46 12/31/97
Glenelg Beach

Day 47 1/1/98
DDay Departure Day


"Click on picture to Zoom"

Jane and Andrew in the Rain at Abel Tasman Park

Mon. December 15, 1997

Day 30

That’s the Maori name for New Zealand. We were both sleeping so soundly when the alarm went off at 6:00. I quickly realized that it was raining. I had just read last night about the drought! What a SURPRISE! Little did I know at that time that we wouldn’t have another sunny day on the south island! It was very dreary looking. It took me a little while to figure out how this trip was going to work. I picked a Kiwi book up at the desk so I could read about what we were heading out to do. I had just figured out how our trip was going to work here. They have buses running every day all summer and you can take up to six months to do your route. You just get off the bus wherever you want to and get back on whenever you make a reservation to be picked up. It’s phenomenal! I just wish we could have gotten off more often and stayed everywhere till we’d seen and done it all. We pretty much had to keep on the move. We had three days to decide where we wanted to spend them. Today we went to Abel Tasman National Park… Tasman was an explorer that did a lot in this part of the world. So many things are named for him in Australia and New Zealand. It’s a huge beautiful park and you could spend a week here! You have to know the plans of the day so you pack your daypack accordingly. We didn’t get in our backpacks during the day because they were under the bus. Our options today were sea kayaking or taking a boat down a good way to be let out on a hiking trail for a two-hour hike. The boat would pick us up on that beach and bring us back. I just couldn’t get in the frame of mind to be sitting in cold water in this weather so we chose the hike. We had stopped at a bakery on the way and bought our breakfast and got sandwiches for our lunch. No matter how small a town, they always have a bakery! We had to be there by 9:00 as that’s when the boat pulls out. They met us on the shore and ferried us out in a dingy to the boat. It is a beautiful park with spectacular coastline. Was pretty today but I would have loved to see it all in the sunshine.

All along the coast it was like the rainforest went straight to the water or the rocky headlands and then there’d be a stretch of isolated beach. Some of the beaches were very small and some were big enough to have groups camped. These are beaches that are only accessible to boats. There is no way to hike down to them because of the steep cliffs. They are perfect for the sea kayakers who are camping for a few days. Shortly after pulling out we passed Split Apple Rock. It looks just like an apple that had split sitting there. Our boat ride was probably about 45 minutes. There are 42 summer homes in Abel Tasman Park. What lucky people! It was negotiated in 1942. I guess when they set up the park those who had land there or places got to keep the right to have them. What views they have! It’d be just like being able to have a cabin of your own in Yellowstone! We were ferried off at Torrent Bay and had about two hours to hike to Bark Bay. It was a steep narrow trail up the mountain and then back down again of course. There were seven of us that took this option but we didn’t all hike together. It looked much like a rain forest because of the ferns, mosses, and lichens. It was like we were hiking through the clouds. It was a misting kind of rain. Later it really began to rain but it was not cold and was pleasant tramping for awhile. Every now and then a beautiful overlook would pop up! I just wished for sun for some pretty pictures. When we got to Bark Bench we huddled up in a crowd on the porch of a little house there. It was really raining then and it was breezy and chilly when we weren’t moving and we were all wet. We had what was to have been our picnic there. Because we had to wait about 45 minutes we were all quite chilly by the time the boat came. They ferried us over again and we were on our way back to the starting point to join up with the kayakers and the ones who just chilled out all day. It was 3:00 p.m. by then and we were headed to Bullers Adventure Company to make arrangements for what we wanted to do tomorrow. It RAINED the rest of the day! We were driving through clouds and could only see a couple of car lengths out in front of us. We couldn’t see the landscapes or anything we passed.

I had noticed that they didn’t seem to catch rainwater here like they did in Australia. Maybe because they don’t need too as much! Sheep are everywhere on this island. Andrew calls them land lice. Ever since he told me that I just laugh because it’s really a good comparison. They really don’t like passing vehicles. They are skittish animals. We’ve passed deer farms a lot! They are in pastures grazing like cattle. Kiwi vines are prevalent around here and Nick says tobacco plants (Nick is our driver). They sure look different than what I thought tobacco looks like. They are growing up poles and supports like beans. Maybe they are just real young plants. At one point we had to stop the bus and follow a herd of cows being herded down the road from one pasture to another. One working dog assisted a guy in a car!

We were heading to Westport. My ears were popping as we went up. We went into Kahuangi National Park. Fifty percent of the native trees in New Zealand are there and 50-80% of the wildlife. The name is Maori and means "protective veil". Maori words all seem to have two meanings. Many, many things here have such strange names because they are Maori. We followed a river down for such a long time. It reminded me of driving in the Colorado Mountains and crossing over the river which keeps popping up on opposite sides of the road. We saw no kayakers on this river though. It would be good rafting here!

We stopped at Bullers Gorge but the predictions are that there won’t be any activities tomorrow because things are flooded. The direction we are heading has already had a lot of rain. We drove through Murchinson. In 1929 there was a huge earthquake here. We saw the 90% angles on the mountains. It demolished this town. Six hundred people live there now. We saw where the road disappeared in one place from a landslide. They had to carve more out of the mountain and made another road. You can still see the old section leading up to the drop-off.

Westport boasts of 2000 hours of sunshine a year which is more than Auckland, Christchurch or Wellington. I’d have never guessed that by what we’ve seen. What a FOG there is and no let up in the rain AT ALL. We stopped for tea at one little spot. We’d gone over six or eight bridges. They were all single lane and made with very different architectural styles. The bus just fits over! We went through a section of white pine. It’s the tallest type of pine in New Zealand – a soft pine that was used to make butter boxes. They build houses with it now. They grow about 150 feet tall. Logging is much more regulated now though. We’ve passed several Teutonic plates. The mountains are still shifting and moving on the south island. We wound and wound around. The rivers we crossed late in the day were RAGING. We went around one turn where the height and width of the bus was literally carved out of the mountain! The rail along it was marked in one place where the water came up in the 80’s. We would learn the next day that this road was washed over and passed that mark!

We spent the night at Bezels (a hostel named for the dog). It’s the best hostel we’ve been in yet. Clean, neat and some real nice touches. It was great! We went for a special dinner at Bailey’s Pub and enjoyed conversation with a gal who is a teacher in international schools. She’s seeing the world that way! She gave Andrew some good information. He needs to get an ECIS book of schools abroad. He thinks that I should not plan to do DROP and should teach overseas in some exotic places a couple of years after I retire instead. I left him there to hang out awhile and walked back. It was really pouring and I wasn’t sure I recognized the way. It was a fluke that I found it.